Best Kayak Paddles In 2022

The best and quickest way to upgrade your kayaking experience will be through buying a better kayak paddle. Using a higher quality paddle will fundamentally change the way you experience kayaking. An upgrade will extend your trips, generally making the sport more enjoyable.

Next to the kayak itself, your paddle has the biggest impact on your performance on the water. Even a short tour involves thousands of strokes, so a proper paddle can make all the difference. To choose a kayak paddle, you need to consider four basic ideas:
Length: Your boat width and your height determine your paddle length.
Materials and price: Lightweight materials improve performance, but add to a paddle’s price.
Blade choice: Your paddle’s blade size and shape affect its overall efficiency in the water.
Shaft choice: A bent shaft or feathered blades can also improve a paddle’s effectiveness.

Kayak Paddle Lengths

I’ve had some pretty toasty discussions regarding the proper paddle length for sea kayaks. Some suggest there is no reason to reach out beyond 220 cm, while others prefer the laid-back long stroke of a paddle at least 240 cm.

For a while the trend was to go with a very short (215 cm and less) paddle, using a vertical stroke similar to canoeing. Some still prefer to paddle this way as it provides speed and power in each purchase of the blade with water. To me, the obvious question becomes “For how long do you need to maintain quick speed and power in your stroke?”

A well-designed and well-trimmed sea kayak will usually maintain a straight course on the glide between proper paddling strokes. Once the boat is up to a modest touring speed, the inertia of the boat can be maintained with only casual, forward strokes that help maintain that glide with very little effort. An occasional power stroke might be called up for a quick maneuver but for distance paddling in calm weather, what’s called the “touring” stroke is quite adequate.

Speaking of calm weather, length can play a role in how easy it is to paddle in higher winds or contrary seas. A longer paddle is going to be affected by the wind more than a short paddle. Rough seas can sometimes make a longer paddle cumbersome as well.

I also have a theory that if a beginner starts out with too long a paddle, he or she often fails to develop a good rotating torso technique. The shorter paddle, to be placed properly, tends to encourage the paddler to rotate. The longer shafts, however, make it easier to simply reach out and pull the paddle back using only the arms, with no rotation at all. Again, the prudent option, for anyone not sure of which length is best, is to experiment with several paddle lengths until you find one that is comfortable yet promotes proper paddling technique.

From a historic perspective, paddle length seems arbitrary. For many coastal cultures, materials were limited, sometimes making it virtually impossible to find a single piece of wood long enough to serve as a double paddle. In many regions, it was far more typical to see kayakers paddling with a single bladed paddle, not two.

Paddle length, therefore, is a judgment call based partially on style of paddling, type of boat and skill level. Longer paddles work well for a relaxed, cruising strokes. Shorter paddles may offer more control and be more effective in delivering a power stroke. Paddles come in even increments of 10 cm. which means a 220 cm paddle is about 4” shorter than a 230 cm. paddle. That’s only 2” in length on each side. It doesn’t seem like much but there can be a noticeable difference in the stroke.

Learn proper paddling skills first before experimenting with different lengths. Personally I have a couple of lengths I use regularly. Naturally I choose the longer shafts for doubles and canoes as mentioned, but also for lazy, relaxed paddling or fishing. I carry a shorter paddle on my deck for a spare and for occasions where I want really need or want to make steady vertical power strokes.

Tweener Sizes

If you fall between two sizes, it’s generally better to go shorter. Either size would probably work, but you’ll save a few ounces with a shorter paddle. If you’re proportioned with a shorter torso, though, then the added reach will come in handy and you should go with the longer paddle.

The low-angle stroke is done with the shaft being only slightly tilted—your top hand stays below your shoulder level. This stroke is ideal for relaxed, recreational kayaking in flat water.

Featuring a more tilted shaft and close-to-boat blade path, the high-angle stroke is one some paddlers progress to for more speed. The stroke requires precision and is fatiguing if you lack that precision. It requires a shorter paddle and a wider blade than a paddle you’d use for a low-angle stroke.

Paddles are designated as being for either low- or high-angle kayaking, and size charts for each are different. The chart above is for low-angle paddling.

Materials

The truism that saving weight raises both performance and price holds here, too. Because you raise your blade higher than your shaft, lightweight materials there pay off in greater fatigue reduction. Different blade materials also differ in how well they transfer energy to your stroke.

“Plastic” is a generic term here. In specs you’ll see variations like “polymer” or “polypropylene,” or plastic blends infused with nylon or fiberglass. Each might produce a modest gain in performance (and price). And “composite” is a catchall term for carbon-fiber and fiberglass.

Plastic/Nylon Blades: The low-price leader, plastic is often chosen by recreational paddlers who think it’s indestructible. It can crack, though, and degrades when left in the sun. Plastic’s flexibility might prevent it from snapping in two, but flexibility in the water sacrifices efficiency on your stroke.

Fiberglass Blades: In the middle of the price range, these offer excellent performance and durability. More lightweight than plastic, a fiberglass blade might chip, but it usually won’t crack all the way through. Rigid fiberglass blades are efficient in the water.

Carbon-Fiber Blades: If you’re willing to pay top dollar for top performance, go with carbon-fiber. Truly ultralight, it’s also ultrastiff for excellent energy transfer with each stroke.

Blade Design

Most paddle blades these days feature an asymmetrical dihedral shape.
An asymmetrical blade is relatively narrow and shorter on one side. That angles it so the surface area of the blade is more uniform when it’s pushing though the water.

You can spot a dihedral blade by the rib down its center. This allows water to flow smoothly and evenly over both halves of the blade. Blades without this flutter more, which can make it more difficult to track straight.

Because they’re lighter, narrower blades are comfortable for long stretches of paddling; that’s especially helpful on a full-day tour or a multiday trip.

Wider blades lend themselves to quick powerful strokes that let you accelerate quickly. Kayaking surfers often prefer them for this reason. Some specialized fishing blades also include a J-shaped notch in the blade to retrieve snared fishing lines and hooks.

The best paddles are lightweight, sturdy, and efficient to the point that it feels like an extension of your body. Generally, this means that the paddle is made out of carbon fiber or fiberglass and that the paddle blade has a relatively large surface area. But there are some affordable aluminum models that perform pretty well too.

Additionally, the paddle should have a solid grip and be durable enough to deal with knocks and scrapes.

Note: kayaking alone is more visible. Best to play with friends. Bring a waterproof two way radio for long-distance communication and help.

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